Explore Plants
Ask Mr. Smarty Plants
Ask Mr. Smarty Plants is a free service provided by the staff and volunteers at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.
Can't find the answer in our existing FAQs, submit a question to Mr. Smarty Plants.
Need help with plant identification, visit the plant identification page.
rate this answer
Saturday - September 10, 2011
From: San Antonio, TX
Region: Southwest
Topic: Diseases and Disorders, Pruning, Trees
Title: Pruning live oak shoots from San Antonio
Answered by: Barbara Medford
QUESTION:
I am new to TX and am curious about removing suckers/water sprouts from my Live Oaks. Everything I've read about pruning Live Oaks states that you must paint ALL cuts, so I assume that all means all. However in discussing the matter with locals, most say that you only need to paint cuts of a certain diameter. Am I really supposed to try to paint every one of those little cuts or do I just need to worry about painting larger cuts?ANSWER:
We have heard more about this problem this year than we remember ever having before. We will refer you to some links to get more information, but here is a summary. The Live Oak is the most susceptible of the oaks to Oak Wilt, and that is why recommending the pruning paint on cuts is so pervasive. The most important thing to understand is that the Nitulidid beetle, who carries the spores of the Oak Wilt fungus on his body, is not active during the coldest weather. For that reason, we recommend pruning only during November 15 to January 15. Pruning or any kind of damage, like a ding from a weedeater or a lawnmower, will result in sap being released by the tree. The pesky beetle looooves oak sap, and is attracted to it, complete with spores.
On the subject of pruning paint, if your tree experiences a break from wind or other reasons, the stump should immediately be cleaned up, cut straight, and pruning paint applied. If the stub is no larger than your thumb, you can omit the paint.
Which brings us to the sprouts; unless you have ignored them for a long time, they are not going to be that big. Get down below the soil if you can, and whack 'em off. They will come back, persistence is the rule.
Now for some previous answers on this prolem:
More Pruning Questions
Trimming of Flame acanthus from Bastrop TX
February 17, 2012 - My flame acanthus never lost leaves off the bottom tier of branches this winter. With the brief warm weather and rain we've had, the top and middle tier of branches have all re-leafed. It is very l...
view the full question and answer
pruning crape myrtle (ugh, non-native)
March 05, 2012 - We would like to plant a Dynamite Crape myrtle in front of our front window. They grow 20' to 30'. Can I trim it each year to about 15' to 20'? Should we plant it approximately 5 feet from the ...
view the full question and answer
Pruning Bald Cypress in Wylie, TX
January 02, 2010 - I have a 6 year old bald cypress that sustained damage to the upper portion of its trunk a couple of years ago. Since that time it has grown more outward than upward and developed a rounder shape. I...
view the full question and answer
Pruning technique for Anacacho Orchid from Austin
May 18, 2011 - I have an Anacacho Orchid tree that is about 8 ft tall and still young. It is doing quite well. I have never pruned it, but lately I have been considering it as some of the top branches are starting t...
view the full question and answer
How to prune Opuntia ellisiana in Decatur, GA.
August 20, 2009 - Hi Mr SP--How do I go about pruning an Opuntia ellisiana? I have saws, newspaper, heavy leather gloves, goggles, etc. But my question is more about what section of the plant to cut. The base has de...
view the full question and answer
 |
Support the Wildflower Center by Donating Online or Becoming a Member today. Mr. Smarty Plants wants you to be his Facebook friend. Click the Facebook icon to add yourself to Mr. Smarty Plants list of friends. |
